Онлайн книга
Примечания книги
1
http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceRegulation/LawsRegulations/ucm074201.htm [FD&C Act, sec. 201 (i)]
2
Nancy Etcoff, Survival of the Prettiest: The Science of Beauty (New York: Anchor Books, 2000), 107–108.
3
Sally Pointer, The Artifi ce of Beauty: A History and Practical Guide to Perfume and Cosmetics (Sutton Publishing, 2005), 19.
4
Etcoff, Survival of the Prettiest, 101.
5
Malcolm Kirk, Man As Art: New Guinea, (New York: The Viking Press, 1981), 21.
6
Prof. Hamed Abdel-reheem Ead, “Cosmetics in Ancient Egypt,” http://www.levity.com/alchemy/islam23.htm (на 25 января 2015 г.).
7
Monica H. Green, ed., The Trotula: An English Translation of the Medieval Compendium of Women’s Medicine (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002), 120.
8
Lionel Casson, Everyday Life in Ancient Egypt (Baltimore: John Hopkins University Press, 2001), 32. and Robin Gay, Women in Ancient Egypt (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1993), 129–135.
9
Farmanfarmaian, Fatema Soudavar, “‘Haft Qalam Arayish’: Cosmetics in the Iranian World.” Iranian Studies 33 (лето-осень 2000 г.): 285–326.
10
Aristotle, Aristotle in 23 Volumes, Vol. 21, translated by H. Rackham. (Cambridge, MA, Harvard University Press; London, William Heinemann Ltd. 1944), раздел 1254b. В русском издании – Аристотель. Сочинения: В 4 т. Т. 4. – М.: Мысль, 1983.
11
Matthew Dillon and Lynda Garland, The Ancient Greeks: History and Culture from Archaic Times to the Death of Alexander, (New York: Routledge, 2013), 144.
12
Mary Eaverly, Tan Men/Pale Women: Color and Gender in Archaic Greece and Egypt, A Comparative Approach (Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 2013), 128.
13
Xenophon, The Shorter Socratic Writings, ed. Robert C. Bartlett, Oeconomicus trans. Carnes Lord (Cornell University, 1996), 72. В русском издании – С. И. Соболевский «Ксенофонт, его жизнь и сочинения». Домострой, «Глава 10. Отучение жены от косметических средств и приучение к укреплению тела заботами о хозяйстве».
14
Parody and Subversion in Ovid’s “Medicamina Faciei Femineae,” Patricia A. Watson, Mnemosyne, Fourth Series, Vol. 54, Fasc. 4 (авг. 2001 г.), 457–71.
15
The Love Books of Ovid Being the Amores, Ars Amatoria, Remedia Amoris and Medicamina Faciei Femineae of Publius Ovidius Naso, 154.
16
John Donne, Juvenilia: Or Certain Paradoxes and Problems (1633).
17
St. Cyprian (ed. The Rev. Alexander Roberts, D., and James Donaldson, LL.D.,) “On The Dress of Virgins,” in The Ante-Nicene Fathers, Translations of The Writings of the Fathers down to A.D. 325, Revised and Chronologically Arranged, with Brief Prefaces and Occasional Notes, by A. Cleveland Coxe, D.D., (том V) (Authorized Edition) (T&T Clark, 1995,) 434.
18
Georg Brandes, “Shylock: a monster of passionate hatred, not avarice,” Shakespeare: The Critical Edition: The Merchant of Venice, ed. William Baker and Brian Vickers. В русском издании – Георг Брандес. «Шекспир. Жизнь и произведения». Перевод В. М. Спасской и В. М. Фриче. М., «Алгоритм», 1997. Отпечатано по изданию Брандес, Шекспир. Жизнь и произведения, Москва, 1899 г.
19
House of Commons Journal Volume 6: 7 June 1650, in Journal of the House of Commons: Volume 6, 1648–1651 (London: His Majesty’s Stationery Offi ce, 1802), 420–22.
20
Pointer, The Artifi ce of Beauty, 102.
21
Morag Martin, Selling Beauty: Cosmetics, Commerce, and French Society, 1750–1830 (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2009), 27.
22
Melissa Hyde, Making Up the Rococo: François Boucher and His Critics (Los Angeles: Getty Research Institute, 2006), 87.
23
Richard Corson, Fashions in Makeup: from Ancient to Modern Times (London: Peter Owen Publishers, 2004), 249.
24
Max Beerbohm, “A defence of cosmetics” (New York: Dodd, Mead, and company, 1922), 4–5.
25
Antonia Fraser, Marie Antoinette: The Journey (New York: Anchor Books, 2012), 36–37.
26
Madame Campan, Memoirs of the Court of Marie Antoinette (Middlesex: Echo Library, 2007), 139.
27
Fraser, Marie Antoinette, 145.
28
Campan, Memoirs, 63.
29
Fraser, Marie Antoinette, 93.
30
Caroline Weber, Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution (New York: Picador, 2007), 66.
31
Там же, 73–74.
32
Fraser, Marie Antoinette, 266.
33
Там же, 528.
34
Там же, 528.
35
Etcoff, Survival of the Prettiest, 105.
36
Sarah B. Pomeroy, Spartan Women (Oxford University Press, 2002), 131–4.
37
Ovid, “The Art of Beauty,” in The Art of Love and other Love Books of Ovid (New York: The Universal Library, 1959), 231.
38
Lopez E., Le Faou A., Borzeix S., Berland S., “Stimulation of rat cutaneous fi broblasts and their synthetic activity by implants of powdered nacre [mother of pearl],” Tissue Cell 32 (февраль 2000 г.): 95–101.
39
Corson, Fashions in Makeup, 54–5.
40
Green, The Trotula, 75.
41
Clement of Alexandria, Paedagogus, Book 3 Chapter 2.
42
Jacqueline Spicer, Painted Breasts and Shamefast Blushes: Contextualising Cosmetics in Caterina Sforza’s Gli Experimenti (2010), M.S.c. Thesis, University of Edinburgh, UK, 20.
43
Annette Drew-Bear, “Face-Painting Scenes in Ben Jonson’s Plays,” Studies in Philology Vol. 77, No. 4 (University of North Carolina Press, 1980), 397.
44
George Bate, Pharmacopoeia Bateana, or, Bate’s dispensatory translated from the second edition of the Latin copy, published by Mr. James Shipton, London, 1694.
45
Там же.
46
Farah Karim-Cooper, Cosmetics in Shakespearean and Renaissance Drama (Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2012), 11.
47
Green, The Trotula, 139.
48
Thomas Tuke, A Treatise against Painting and Tincturing of Men and Women (London: Printed by Tho. Creed, and Barn. Allsope, for Edward Merchant dwelling in Pauls Church-yard, neere the Crosse, 1616).
49
Giovanni Lomazzo, A Tracte Containing the Artes of Curious Paintinge, Carvinge and Buildinge (Oxford: By Ioseph Barnes for R.H., 1598).
50
Corson, Fashions in Makeup, 324–25.
51
Lucinda Hawksley, Lizzie Siddal: The Tragedy of a Pre-Raphaelite Supermodel (London: Andre Deutsch, 2009), 113.
52
Там же, 23.
53
Там же, 42–43.
54
Там же, 83.
55
Jan Marsh, The Legend of Elizabeth Siddal, (London: Quartet Books, 1989), 59.
56
Sarah Jane Downing, Beauty and Cosmetics 1550–1950 (Oxford: Shire Library, 2012), 35.
57
Anna Krugovoy Silver, Victorian Literature and the Anorexic Body (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2002), 12.
58
Marsh, The Legend of Elizabeth Siddal, 27–28.
59
King James Bible, Matthew 6:22.
60
Henry Misson, M. Misson’s Memoirs and Observations in his Travels over England. With Some Account of Scotland and Ireland. Dispos’d in Alphabetical Order. Written originally in French, trans. Mr. Ozell (London: Printed for D. Browne, 1719), 214.
61
“Wooden cosmetic pot of Ahmose of Peniati,” цифровые записи Британского музея: https://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_objects/aes/w/wooden_cosmetic_pot_of_ahmose.aspx.
62
Analytical Chemistry, January 15, 2010 (American Chemical Society).
63
Corson, Fashions in Makeup, and Doug Stewart, “Eternal Egypt” (Smithsonian, June 2001).
64
Ivan Morris, The World of the Shining Prince: Court Life in Ancient Japan (New York, Tokyo, and London: Kodansha International, 1994), 204.
65
Fatema Soudavar Farmanfarmaian, “Haft Qalam Arayish: Cosmetics in the Iranian World,”, Iranian Studies, 33 no. 3/4 (2000), 285–326.
66
Carolyn Graves-Brown, Dancing For Hathor: Women in Ancient Egypt (London: Continuum, 2010), 70.
67
Vinod Mehta, Meena Kumari: The Classic Biography (India: HarperCollins, 2013), 45.
68
Ginette Vincendeau, Brigitte Bardot, (London: Plagrave Macmillian, 2013), 54.
69
“1929–1940 Life and Career,” официальный сайт Одри Хепберн: http://www.audreyhepburn.com/menu/index.php?idMenu=61&pg=1.12 “1940–1948 Life and Career,” официальный сайт Одри Хепберн: http://www.audreyhepburn.com/menu/index.php?id-Menu=50&pg=0
70
“1940–1948 Life and Career”, официальный сайт Одри Хепберн, http://www.audreyhepburn.com/menu/index.php?id-Menu=50&pg=0
71
Alexander Walker, “Hepburn, Audrey (1929–1993),” Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, Oxford University Press, 2004; цифровое издание, январь 2008 г.: http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/printable/52107 на 9 ноября 2014 г.
72
Lloyd Shearer, “Makeup Tips from Europe’s Most Famous Makeup Man,” Reading Eagle, 5 июня 1966 г., 12.
73
Jeremy Taylor, A Discourse of Auxiliary Beauty or Artifi ciall Handsomenesse In Point of Conscience between Two Ladies (Printed for R: Royston, at the Angel in Ivie-Lane, 1656), 48.
74
Marjori Ferguson, Forever Feminine: Women’s Magazines and the Cult of Femininity (Exeter, NH: Heinemann Educational Books, 1983), 99.
75
Ferguson, Forever Feminine, 15–16.
76
“Billie Burke, Sweetest, Highest Paid Actress of the Day, to Write Exclusively For You,” The Day Book (Chicago), June 10, 1912.
77
Kathy Peiss, Hope in a Jar: The Making of America’s Beauty Culture (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press: 2011), 47.
78
Annette Kuhn, An Everyday Magic: Cinema and Cultural Memory (London: I. B. Tauris Publishers, 2002), 110.
79
Sarah Berry, Screen Style, quoted from Madame Sylvia, “If You Would Have Figure Like Harlow,” Modern Screen (ноябрь 1935 г.), 22.
80
Carol Van Wyck, “New Tricks for the New Year,” Photoplay (январь 1937 г.), 60.
81
“Eye Makeup Styles for Types” in “Beauty Shop,” Photoplay (апрель 1933 г.), 71.
82
“Famous Eyebrows” in “Beauty Shop,” Photoplay (апрель 1934 г.), 84–85.
83
Van Wyck, “New Tricks for the New Year,” 60.
84
Реклама Hollywood Max Factor Color Harmony в журнале Modern Screen (апрель 1938 г.), 79.
85
Реклама Hollywood Max Factor Color Harmony в журнале Photoplay (январь 1934 г.), 109.
86
Ronald Genini, Theda Bara: A Biography of the Silent Screen Vamp, with a Filmography (McFarland and Co., 2012), 16.
87
Helena Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty (New York: Simon & Schuster, 1966), 48.
88
David Stenn, Clara Bow: Runnin’ Wild (New York: Cooper Square Press, 2000), 21.
89
Там же, 277.
90
Barry Paris, Garbo (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2002), 229.
91
Geoffrey Jones, Beauty Imagined: A History of the Global Beauty Industry (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010), 137.
92
Frank Westmore and Muriel Davidson, The Westmores of Hollywood (Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott Company, 1976), 104.
93
Fred Basten, with Robert Salvatore and Paul Kaufman, Max Factor’s Hollywood: Glamour, Movies, Makeup (Santa Monica, CA: General Publishing Group, 1995), 17.
94
Fred Basten, Max Factor: The Man Who Changed the Faces of the World (New York: Arcade Publishing, 2012), 25–27.
95
Basten, Max Factor’s Hollywood, 126–131.
96
Там же, 37.
97
“Max Factor Chronology” – от пиар-службы Max Factor
98
Basten, Max Factor’s Hollywood, 157.
99
Michèle Fitoussi, Helena Rubinstein: The Woman Who Invented Beauty, trans. Kate Bignold and Lakshmi Ramakrishnan Iyer (London: Gallic Books, 2013), 30.
100
Там же, 38–40.
101
Lindy Woodhead, War Paint: Madame Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden – Their Lives, Their Times, Their Rivalry (London: Virago, 2003), 33.
102
Там же, 48.
103
Mark Tungate, Branded Beauty: How Marketing Changed the Way We Look (London: Kogan Page, 2011), 21
104
Lewis, An Unretouched Portrait, 52.
105
Lindy Woodhead, War Paint: Helena Rubinstein and Miss Elizabeth Arden, Their Lives, Their Times, Their Rivalry (London: Virago, 2003), 57.
106
Woodhead, War Paint, 59.
107
Там же, 145.
108
Там же, 146.
109
Там же, 279–80.
110
Там же, 210.
111
Там же, 211.
112
Mary Tannen, “When Charlie Met Estée,” New York Times, 24 февраля 2002 г., http://www.nytimes.com/2002/02/24/magazine/when-charlie-met-estee.html
113
Andrew Tobias, Fire and Ice: The Story of Charles Revson, the Man Who Built the Revlon Empire (New York: William Morrow, 1976), 63.
114
Woodhead, War Paint, 258.
115
Tobias, Fire and Ice, 148.
116
Woodhead, War Paint, 422.
117
Tannen, “When Charlie Met Estée.”
118
Jones, Beauty Imagined, 163.
119
Jones, Beauty Imagined, 163
120
Westmore and Davidson, The Westmores of Hollywood, 69–70.
121
Lois Banner, Marilyn: The Passion and the Paradox (London: Bloomsbury, 2012), 38.
122
Там же, 118–19.
123
Dennis Hopper, “The Society of Models: Conversations with Lauren Hutton, Christy Turlington, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell.” Grand Street, выпуск № 50, осень 1994 г., 136.
124
Derek Blasberg, “Lauren Hutton: The Wild One,” Harper’s Bazaar, 13 января 2011 г., http://www.harpersbazaar.com/celebrity/news/lauren-hutton-interview-0211
125
Jenna Lyons, “The Inconoclast: Lauren Hutton,” Interview, http://www.interviewmagazine.com/culture/lauren-hutton
126
Blasberg, “Lauren Hutton.”
127
Lyons, “The Iconoclast.”
128
Blasberg, “Lauren Hutton.”
129
Alex Simon, “Lauren Hutton: No Nip/Tuck Required,” Venice, ноябрь 2007 г., http://thehollywoodinterview.blogspot.com/2008/02/lauren-hutton-hollywood-interview.html
130
Teresa Riordan, Inventing Beauty: A History of the Innovations That Have Made Us Beautiful (New York: Broadway Books, 2004), 17.
131
Там же, 7.
132
“Cosmetics timeline,” сайт Cosmetics and Skin, http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/cosmetic-timeline.php
133
“Maybelline,” сайт Cosmetics and Skin, http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/maybelline.php
134
Там же.
135
“1950 Eyes,” Life, 30 января 1950 г., автор не указан, с.63–64 и 66.
136
“Revlon,” Cosmetics and Skin website, http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/revlon.php
137
Corson, Fashions in Makeup, 544.
138
“The new Cleopatra Look as only Revlon does it! (1962),” The Makeup Museum, http://www.makeupmuseum.org/.a/6a00e553d45a2a8833019aff1cbf0f970d-pi
139
“Mermaid Eyes by Max Factor Advertisement,” Life, June 1 1962, 8.
140
“Eyes Speak: The Soft Look by Max Factor Advertisement,” Flickr, https://www.flickr.com/photos/kahluacream/3268882631/in/pool60sbeautyproducts
141
Corson, Fashions in Makeup, 568, 584.
142
Riordan, Inventing Beauty, 207.
143
Madeleine Marsh, Compacts and Cosmetics: Beauty from Victorian Times to the Present Day (South Yorkshire: Pen and Sword, 2014), 136.
144
Tungate, Branded Beauty, 17–18.
145
Jones, Beauty Imagined, 102.
146
Marsh, Compacts and Cosmetics, 86.
147
Там же, 142.
148
Там же, 172.
149
Sophie Wilkinson, “A Short History of Tanning,” Guardian, February 19, 2012, http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2012/feb/19/history-of-tanning.
150
Vogue, June 1929, 94.
151
Eva Wiseman, “Tanning trends: beyond the pale,” Guardian, August 7, 2010, http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/aug/08/fake-tan-pale-skincelebrities.
152
Marsh, Compacts and Cosmetics, 37.
153
Anna Chesters, “A brief history of Guerlain,” Guardian, March 26, 2012, http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2012/mar/26/brief-history-guerlain.
154
Anna Chesters, “A brief history of Lancôme,” Guardian, March 19, 2012, http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2012/mar/19/brief-history-lancome.
155
Tungate, Branded Beauty, 66.
156
Marsh, Compacts and Cosmetics, 93.
157
Tungate, Branded Beauty, 57.
158
Linda Watson, “Shu Uemura: Creator of a global cosmetics brand,” Independent, February 27, 2008, http://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/shuuemura-creator-of-a-global-cosmetics-brand-787839.html.
159
“The Path of Beauty,” Shu Uemura website, http://www.shuuemura-usa.com/the-path-of-beauty/discover-the-path-of-beauty,default,sc.html.
160
Bobbi Brown, “How I Did It: Bobbi Brown, Founder and CEO, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics,” Inc., November 1, 2007, http://www.inc.com/magazine/20071101/how-i-did-itbobbi-brown-founder-andceo-bobbi-brown.html.
161
Jan Masters, “Meet François Nars – the make-up mogul,” Telegraph, October 7, 2007, http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG3361706/Meet-Francois-Nars-the-makeup-mogul.html.
162
“Twiggy,” interview by Sue Lawley, Desert Island Discs (London: BBC Radio 4), January 13, 1989.
163
“Twiggy’s beauty secrets: Eyes and lips,” Daily Mail Online, September 20, 2008, http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/you/article-1056252/Twiggysbeauty-secrets-eyes-lips.html#ixzz3Hdx8RGtg.
164
“Artifi cial (False) Eyelashes,” Cosmetics and Skin website, http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/cdc/false-eyelashes.php. And “An Interview with Barry Discussing Twiggy,” by Barry Lategan, http://www.barrylategan.com/Twiggy.html.
165
Michael Kors, “Michael Kors Talks to Dame Elizabeth Taylor,” Harper’s Bazaar, March 23, 2011, http://www.harpersbazaar.com/celebrity/news/elizabeth-taylor-jewlery-hair.
166
Bob McCann, Encyclopedia of African American Actresses in Film and Television (Jefferson, NC: MacFarland, 2009), 184.
167
Miranda Sawyer, “State of Grace,” Guardian, October 10, 2008, http://www.theguardian.com/music/2008/oct/12/grace-jones-hurricane.
168
Queens of Disco, directed by Jeff Simpson (BBC: March 6, 2007).
169
Simon Hattenstone, “Grace Jones: ‘God I’m scary. I’m scaring myself,’” Guardian, April 17, 2010, http://www.theguardian.com/music/2010/apr/17/grace-jones-interview.
170
Madonna’s website, “MDNA SKIN Launches in Japan On February 12,” http://www.madonna.com/news/title/mdna-skin-launches-in-japan-on-february-12.
171
Malcolm Kirk, Man as Art (San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1993), 16.
172
Art Wolfe, Tribes, (London: Thames and Hudson Ltd, 1997), 19.
173
Spicer, Painted Breasts and Shamefast Blushes, Quoted from Art Wolfe’s Tribes, 8.
174
Spicer, Painted Breasts and Shamefast Blushes, Quoted from Liz Frost’s ‘“Doing Looks”: Women, Appearance and Mental Health’ in Women’s Bodies: discipline and transgression. (London, Cassell): 117–137, 10.
175
Quote direct from Elaine Slater.